Western Hognose Snake Care

Species info: Western hognoses are smaller snakes native to the central and western United States. The pig-like snout they get their name from acts like a little natural shovel when digging through soil using their powerful neck muscles. Hognoses are perhaps best known for their death-feigning tendencies when under stress- flopping upside down and lying mouth agape with their tongue out to the side. They will even turn upside down again if turned over (admittedly not the most convincing part of the behavior).

Level of Care/Handling: Easy. The vast majority of western hognoses available are captive bred, adding to their already hardy constitution and ease of care. As with pretty much all snakes, hognoses are usually very skittish as babies, but can typically be very tame as juveniles/adults, especially if worked with from the start. It is recommended to give your snake at least a week to settle in before handling, preferably also not until they’ve eaten with you. Handling is best not done the day of, before, or after feeding to avoid not accepting or regurgitation of food. 

Length/Lifespan: Female hognoses are usually always larger than males, maxing out at 3 ft. while males stay 2 ft. and under. With proper care, these snakes can easily live 15-20 years.               

Temperature/Lighting/Space Requirements: Enclosure temperatures should run from the high 70’s/low 80’s on the cool end to 85-90 on the warm end (with an 85-88 degree basking spot). Hognoses are diurnal and will make use of a basking spot if one is provided, but is not 100% necessary as long as an under-tank heat mat is provided. Babies should be housed in enclosures 5 gallons or smaller. Adults will be comfortable, and will always appreciate more space. It is generally not recommended to cohabitate snakes regardless of sex and hognoses are no exception.

Humidity/Water Requirements: Humidity can be kept on the low end (30-40%) as long as a humid hide (lined with damp spagnum moss or paper towels) is provided on the warm end during shedding periods. A water bowl large enough to soak in should also be placed closer to the cooler end so it doesn’t make the cage enclosure too humid from excess evaporation. Snakes are well known for defecating in water bowls, especially freshly filled ones, so take care to sanitize as necessary. 

Tank Flooring: Aspen shavings or chips are both good options for these snakes. A layer at least 2-3 in. deep should be provided to allow for burrowing.

Tank Decoration: Any reptile-safe decorations are okay to use, and various terrarium woods can provided good exploration opportunities and aid in shedding. The only necessities though are hides on the warm and cool ends and aforementioned water bowl. Floor space should prioritized over clutter. 

Diet: Like most captive snakes, hognoses can subsist on a diet of rodents. Frozen thawed (warmed to 98-100 deg) is always recommended over live, as feeding live prey can always result in injuries to your snake. Prey size can be roughly equal to, or slightly larger than, the thickest part of your snake’s body.

Feeding Frequency: Babies/juveniles can be fed an appropriately-sized rodent once every 5 days, and every 10 days or so for adults. Snakes can often go months without food, especially after a large meal, making the occasional food strike no cause for concern as long as your snake’s weight remains stable. As previously mentioned, we recommend not handling your snake the day before, on, or after feeding, to ensure that food is accepted and not regurgitated after the fact.

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