Russian Tortoise Care Guide

Species Info: Russian tortoises, also known as Afghan tortoises, are one of the smaller tortoises commonly available. A little-known fact about Russian tortoises is that they were actually the first animals to go to the moon, circling around it and safely making it back to earth in 1968. Adult females (7-10 in.) are slightly larger than males (5-8 in.).

Level of Care: Easy-medium. Russian tortoises’ long lifespan (40+ years, sometimes much longer) needs to be considered before buying one. They are however shorter lived and easier to care for than other common pet tortoises. These tortoises, and turtles in general, are easily stressed from handling and should only be done so sparingly.

Temperature/Lighting/Space Requirements: Russian tortoises are sometimes housed outdoors but require indoor housing in New England for most of the year. Their living space should have a cool side in the low 70’s and the hot side’s basking spot should be 90-95 degrees. Proper UV lighting is also necessary. Russian tortoises hibernate in the wild for up to 6 months, but tend not to if kept in consistent temperatures and light cycles. An adult tortoise shouldn’t be housed in anything smaller than 75 gallons (50 for a small male), or they will likely spend all their time trying to get out. To that end, it is recommended that any glass walls be covered, as Russian tortoises rarely learn that they can’t walk through them and can be very stubborn in trying to. 

Humidity/Water Requirements: Hydration is much more of a concern for baby/growing tortoises, as a lack thereof can cause their shell to form incorrectly. Overall tank humidity shouldn’t rise above 60% but can vary within that range They (and adults) should have access to 1 or 2 moist hides, which can be done by lining the bottom with wet moss or a paper towel. Babies/juveniles should be given a bath at least every 2 days, once a week for adults. A water bowl with a low rim should also be provided and cleaned often.

Cage Flooring: Tank substrate should be able to hold moisture and fill 2-3 in. of the enclosure to encourage burrowing (a natural behavior). Cypress mulch is considered by many to be the best option, followed by a 50/50 mix of sand and garden loam or Eco Earth. 

Enclosure Decorations: Tank decorations can be minimal and shouldn’t be placed near walls where your tortoise can wedge themselves in and get stuck. Most reptile-safe items are okay, but any fake plants should be avoided as your tortoise will likely try to eat them.

Diet: Russian tortoises are herbivores, and the more varied their diet, the better. They mostly prefer leafy greens (collard greens, dandelion greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, spring mix, chicory, endive) but will also eat veggies like bell pepper, squash, and carrots. They also enjoy flowers, safe ones include hibiscus, rose, forsythia, and cornflowers. Some type of grass pellet should also be supplied for necessary fiber. Fruit should be mostly avoided, except for apple which can be an occasional treat. Veggies to avoid are iceberg lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, spinach, bok choy, peas, rhubarb, and beets.           

Feeding Frequency: Tortoises not housed outdoors often overeat if given the chance, so food should be restricted. A good rule of thumb is to let them eat as much as they can daily for 30 minutes (adults can eat for an hour every other day). Calcium and multivitamin supplements should be given once a week. Cuttlebone can also be supplied for extra calcium (especially while growing), with the added benefit of keeping your tort’s beak trimmed. 

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