Pacman Frog Care Guide

Species Info: Pacman frogs, also known as ornate frogs or horned frogs, are native to South American rainforests. They are voracious ambush predators and unlike most frogs, are equipped with teeth that curve inwards from their upper jaw and a bite force (measured in Cranwell’s horned frog) comparable to mammals of the same size. An extinct Madagascan relative, Beelzebufo, had an estimated bite force roughly equivalent to wolves and female tigers. 

Level of Care/Handling: Easy/medium. Pacman frogs are very hardy for amphibians, but do not tolerate husbandry mistakes as well as common starter reptiles do. Handling for any amphibian should only be done sparingly, either using gloves or washing your hands before and after. Amphibians can breathe and drink through their skin, which makes them extra sensitive to human skin oils/cleaning substances, etc. 

Length/Lifespan: Overall size varies slightly by species, with adult males ranging from 2.5-4 in. and females from 4-7 in. With proper husbandry, your horned frog will easily live 10-15 years.

Temperature/Lighting/Space Requirement: Enclosure temperatures should stay a steady temperature between 80 to 83 degrees F. As pacman frogs don’t require a basking spot or supplemental lighting, this can be accomplished by placing a heat pad (controlled by a thermostat) on the side of the enclosure just above the subtrate. Pacman frogs are ambush predators and don’t move around very much, so adults will do fine in a 20 gallon enclosure. Pacman frogs will readily kill/fight/eat tankmates and should be housed singly regardless of age.

Humidity/Water Requirements: Tank humidity should ideally stay between 70 and 85%, which can be accomplished by keeping a water bowl in the enclosure and misting at least once a day. If humidity goes too low, your frog will likely estivate, turning their skin very tough and barely moving. They are likely not dead, and returning the humidity to normal will bring them out of it. Pacman frogs will bathe in their water, so make sure that it can be easily climbed into or out of, and cleaned frequently. Any water used for misting or otherwise must be treated (with Repti Safe or something similar) to remove chlorine compounds and metals.

Tank Flooring: Pacman frogs love to bury themselves with just their eyes sticking out, so substrate should be deep and safe enough to allow them to do so. Eco Earth Coconut fiber is the most common choice, and organic topsoil can work as well. 

Tank Decoration: Horned frogs appreciate plenty of hiding spaces, and any fake plants will suit them fine. Any live plants besides air plants (like bromeliads) will likely not survive your frog’s burrowing habits.

Diet: As their name implies, pacman frogs are anything but picky. Babies should primarily eat gut-loaded and calcium/multivitamin crickets, earthworms and roaches. Adults should get these as staples, as well as hornworms, silverside fish, and Pac Attack. Raw de-shelled shrimp, wax worms, mice and live bearing fish (such as minnows and mollies) may be offered occasionally as treats. Never feed any wild caught bugs or fish to your frog!  

Feeding Frequency: Babies can be fed 3-4 insects every 3 days. Adults will readily overeat to the point of obesity, and should only be fed once every 7 to 10 days depending on the food items.

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