Kenyan Sand Boa Care

Species info: Kenyan sand boas are among the smallest boas commonly available in the pet trade. Equipped with a spade-like bone on their snout for digging and top-oriented eyes and nostrils for covert above-ground viewing/breathing, their bodies are designed for burrowing and gliding through sandy soil and other dry substrates. This species has been bred in captivity for quite a while, but many still prefer their gorgeous orange and black wild type colors to designer morphs.  

Level of Care: Easy The small size, small and docile nature, and low humidity requirements make Kenyan sand boas one of the best starter reptiles overall.                   

Length/Lifespan: Kenyan sand are among the smallest in their family. Females max out at 3 ft while males are often lucky to push 2 ft. With proper husbandry these snakes can easily live 15-20 years in captivity.

Temperature/Lighting/Space Requirements: Kenyan sand boas like it hot, with a heat gradient running from 80 degrees on the cool end to 90 deg on the warm end, with a hotspot around 95 degrees. It is recommended to keep a temperature-controlled heat mat on the hot end of the tank to maintain heat. A heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter on top can be added if the inside air is not warm enough. As nocturnal burrowing animals, UV lighting or LED/fluorescent lighting aren’t necessary unless desert plants (the only kind that would survive in this kind of enclosure) are being utilized. 

Humidity/Water Requirements: Humidity should be kept low, between 10-35%, as high humidity levels can result in respiratory infections. 

A water bowl large enough to soak in should be offered (snakes often soak in preparation for a shed), but be careful to monitor humidity and not let it get too high. Some keepers prefer to only offer water a few times a week, especially those that keep their snakes in bins instead of glass terrariums.

Tank Flooring: It might seem like sand is the ideal option because of the name, but there are actually better substrates out there, especially in terms of heat retention. Aspen shavings are the ideal option. You can also use coconut fiber with a small amount of sand mixed in. Of course, if you really want to, sand can be used, but it would be advised to feed the snake outside of its enclosure if you do to avoid impaction.

Tank Decoration: Decoration is really for aesthetics only, as Kenyan sand boas spend the majority of their time burrowed or burrowing. The only necessary decorations are hides on either side of the enclosure.

Diet: Kenyan sand boas, like most captive snakes, can subsist entirely on frozen thawed rodents. Baby sand boas can be started on pinkie mice and move up with size as the snake grows. If you find that there is no longer a noticeable bulge in their belly after they’ve finished swallowing, it is probably time to move up. The worst thing that will happen if fed too large of prey is regurgitation, which is not harmful for snakes. Even full-grown specimens do not usually need anything larger than an adult mouse. 

Feeding Frequency: Both growing juveniles and adult snakes can be fed once a week. If you find that your snake is gaining too much weight, feeding can be cut back to every 10-14 days. Kenyan sand boas are not very well known for rejecting meals, but it is still more common for males to refuse food than females, especially during their breeding season. Regardless, they can often go months without food provided the previous meal was large enough.

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