Chahoua Gecko Care Guide

Species Info: Chahoua, or mossy New Caledonian geckos, are the third largest species found on the Island. The species is generally split into 2 locales: Grande Terre/GT (from the main island), and Isle of Pines/PI (a smaller landmass to the north). Chahoua geckos are well-known for their intelligent, inquisitive nature and excellent temperaments, even as babies.  

Level of Care/Handling: Easy. The husbandry requirements of chahoua geckos are very similar to others in their Family (cresties, gargs, etc). They are also considered by many to be the most handleable/least prone to stress. Your gecko should still be given at least a week to adjust to its new surroundings before handing. 

Length/Lifespan: PI chahoua geckos generally max out at 10 in, 1-2” longer than their GT relatives. Records of their captive lifespan are spotty at best, but some claim to have kept specimens that lived up to/over 30 years.

Temperature/Humidity/Lighting/Space: As temperate/tropical lizards, these geckos require an ambient temperature no lower than 67 degrees and generally no higher than 75. A slight, brief increase in temperature is generally not a huge cause for concern, but anything above the mid 80’s can quickly become lethal. If necessary, heating can be done by placing a heat mat hooked up to a thermostat on one side of the tank. Larger setups can utilize a thermostat-controlled ceramic bulb on top. Humidity should stay around 75% (+/- 10%), which can be done by misting the tank at the beginning and end of every day, or however long it takes the enclosure to dry out (to around 60-65%) before misting again.  As long as adequate hiding space is given, your gecko can be given a weak UV light (chewies are well known for basking under UV lights). Babies should be housed in a smaller tank, 12x12x12” or similar. Juveniles should have a 12x12x18 cage at minimum, and 18x18x24” for adults. These geckos are active animals in general and there isn’t such a thing as too much space. Being arboreal (tree-living) animals, cage height is a far more important factor than length or width.

 Flooring: Eco Earth coconut fiber or similar products are the best, cheapest option, as they hold moisture and make cage humidity easier to maintain. Paper towels or newspaper can also be used. Organic topsoil is the best option for keeping live plants in the enclosure.

Decoration: Both species do well with ample live or artificial wide-leaf plants, and woods like cork bark make good additions for climbing. Any hides should hang on the tank walls, arboreal animals don’t tend to use those put at ground level. 

Diet: Chewies will readily eat the same Repashy/Pangea diets cresties and gargs will, but are much more active/better hunters and need a fair amount more live, gut-loaded insects than their cousins. Crickets/lateralis roaches and other feeders that don’t burrow will be readily accepted, and waxworms/butterworms/hornworms can be offered as occasional treats. Hard-bodied insects shouldn’t be much bigger than the distance between your gecko’s eyes. Most if not all feeders should be dusted with a calcium/multivitamin supplement, especially if UV lighting isn’t utilized.

Feeding Frequency: Premade diets should always be made available, refer to specific packaging for how often it needs to be premade. 3-4 appropriately sized feeders should be offered around twice a week. 

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