California Kingsnake Care

Species info: California kingsnakes are a subspecies of the common kingsnake, and native to California and neighboring states. Kingsnakes feed on a wide range of vertebrate animals, but get their name from their tendency towards eating other species of snake. Because of this inclination, they evolved resistances to a wide range of venoms utilized by other native species. Kingsnakes themselves are constrictors, squeezing their prey increasingly tighter until they expire due to lack of blood flow to the heart. 

Level of Care/Handling: Easy. Kingsnakes are among the more hardy snakes available in the pet trade and make great starter reptiles in general as long as their straightforward care requirements are met. Kingsnakes can take a while to warm up to handing, but have a good chance of taming up if worked with consistently. Keep sessions short at first (5-10 minutes) until defensive behaviors like tail rattling and musking (releasing a thick white, smelly substance) decrease in frequency. 

Length/Lifespan: California kingsnakes have been recorded up to 6 ft. but adult lengths of 4-4.5 ft. are much more common. As is with most snakes, females tend to be noticeably larger than males. With proper care, these snakes can easily live 15-20 years, sometimes longer.

Temperature/Lighting/Space Requirements: Enclosure temperatures should run from the low 70’s on the cool end to 80-85 on the warm end (with a 85-88 degree basking spot). Kingsnakes are diurnal and will make use of a basking spot if one is provided, but is not 100% necessary as long as an under-tank heat mat is provided. Babies should be housed in enclosures 10 gallons and under, and 20 gallons at most until over 2 ft long. Adults should kept in enclosures with a 40 gallon footprint (36×18 in. minimum), and will always appreciate more space. It is generally not recommended to cohabitate snakes, and especially so for kingsnakes due to their ophiophagus (snake-eating) tendencies.

Humidity/Water Requirements: Humidity can be kept on the low end (30-40%) as long as a humid hide (lined with damp spag moss or paper towels) is provided on the warm end during shedding periods. A water bowl large enough to soak in should also be placed closer to the cooler end so it doesn’t make the cage enclosure too humid from excess evaporation. Snakes are well known for defecating in water bowls, especially freshly filled ones, so take care to sanitize as necessary. 

Tank Flooring: Aspen shavings or crushed English walnut shells are both good options for these snakes. A layer at least 2-3 in. deep should be provided to allow for burrowing.

Tank Decoration: Any reptile-safe decorations are okay to use, and various terrarium woods can provided good exploration opportunities and aid in shedding. The only necessities though are hides on the warm and cool ends and aforementioned water bowl. Floor space should prioritized over clutter. 

Diet: Like most captive snakes, kingsnakes can subsist on a diet of rodents. Frozen thawed (warmed to 98-100 deg) is always recommended over live, as feeding live prey can always result in injuries to your snake. Prey size can be roughly equal to the girthiest part of your snake’s body.

Feeding Frequency: Babies/juveniles can be fed an appropriately-sized rodent once a week, and every 10-14 days for adults. Snakes can often go months without food, especially after a large meal, making the occasional food strike no cause for concern as long as your snake’s weight remains stable. We recommend not handling your snake the day before, on, or after feeding, to ensure that food is accepted and not regurgitated after the fact.

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