Boa Constrictor Care

Species Info: Red-tail boas are semi-arboreal (tree living), non-venomous snakes from tropical areas of South America. In the wild, they are primarily nocturnal ambush predators, subduing their prey by constriction. A curious feature of boid snakes is the presence of “pelvic spurs” on either side of their vent, which are believed to be the remnants of hind legs from their ancestors that actually used them. Red-tail boas have bred in captivity for years, and as a result have become readily available in a wide range of color morphs.

Level of Care/Handling: Medium-Advanced. Red-tail boas are considered hardy and have straightforward care, but they’re size, rapid growth, and long lifespan must be considered when purchasing one. These snakes seem to do well with handling, but should be given at least a week to acclimate to their new surroundings. Despite this they are still snakes, and shouldn’t be handled more than 2-3 times a week, and never on a day before or 2-3 days after feeding.

Length/Lifespan: Female boas are longer on average than males, usually reaching lengths of 6-9 ft. Males generally get to 5-7 ft. These snakes can easily live 20+ years with proper husbandry.

Temperature/Lighting/Space Requirements: Your boa requires a heat gradient inside its enclosure with a hot side of ~85 degrees, hot spot of ~90 degrees, and a cooler side in the high 70’s. There is very little data regarding boas and UV lighting, and many owners do not have them installed. Heat lamps are generally not recommend as they make humidity tougher to maintain, and boas tend to instead prefer belly heat for thermoregulating. A heat mat hooked up to a thermostat should instead be used, and cover a third of the floor of the enclosure. As previously mentioned, boas grow rather quickly. Babies can be housed in 20-30 gallon enclosures, and juveniles under 3 ft in 30-40 gallons. Adults require a minimum floorspace of 4 ft. by 2 ft.  

Water/Humidity Requirements: A large water bowl should always be kept in the enclosure and checked and changed frequently, as many boas make a habit of soaking/relieving themselves inside of it Humidity should stay between 60-70%. 

Enclosure Flooring: Good options for substrate include cypress mulch and fir bark/mulch, as they hold humidity well. Just be sure not to overmist as too high of a humidity percentage can result in a respiratory infection

Decoration: Any reptile-safe decorations are okay to use. Two hides should be provided, one on the hot side and one on the cooler side. A sturdy branch can also be supplied should your snake desire to climb, but adults are far less likely to than younger snakes.

Diet: Mice as babies and rats as juvies/adults are the only food your boa will need, the size of the meal being equal to the largest portion of the snake. Frozen thawed prey is always preferable to live, as mice and rats can potentially injure your snake, even during constriction. 

Feeding Frequency: Babies and juveniles can be fed once every 7-10 days. After reaching adulthood (normally occurs between 2-3 years) they can be fed every 10-14 days. This can vary between individuals, so your ideal feeding schedule can be found by keeping track of your snake’s weight.