Blue Tongue Skink Care Guide

Species Info: Blue-tongue skinks can be found in the northern parts of Australia, Indonesia, and New Guinea. Northern (T. scincoides spp.) and Indonesian (T. gigas spp.) blue-tongues in general have very similar care needs, the only major differences being humidity requirements and ideal substrate. Blue-tongues’ long, tubular bodies and short, stubby legs make them well equipped for moving through burrows and foliage/hollow logs, but not ideal for escaping predators. To avoid getting eaten, they open their mouths wide; hissing and flashing their blue-tongue to occasionally trick predators into thinking they’re poisonous and/or venomous. Blue-tongues are somewhat unique among lizards in that they give birth to live young!

Level of Care/Handling: Easy. Blue-tongue skinks are able to drop their tails, but rarely actually do unless grabbed by it. They are hardier than many other reptiles and can usually be handled daily without becoming stressed. Northern blue tongues also tend to acclimate better and quicker to handling than Indonesians. Handling should at first be done for no more than 5-10 minutes and only after letting them get used to their new surroundings for a few days to a week.

Length/Lifespan: Male and female blue-tongues tend to be very similar in size, both reaching lengths of 18-24 in. for northerns, and 18-20 in. for Indonesians. With proper husbandry, they can easily live 15-20 years in captivity.

Temperature/Lighting/Space Requirements: Your skink’s enclosure should have a basking spot of 90-100 degrees (90-95 for Indonesians) and a temperature gradient of 75-82 degrees. Being diurnal lizards, UV lighting is recommended. On/off times can vary slightly depending on the time of year (i.e. 13 or 14 hours of light during summer and 12 during winter) but should otherwise stay consistent. Adults will usually be comfortable housed alone in a 40 gallon enclosure, but larger is always better.

Humidity/Water Requirements: For northerns, humidity should stay between 25 and 40%, and kept at the higher end of that range during shedding periods. Indonesians need it much wetter: between 60-80%, which can be accomplished by using the right substrate and misting twice a day. Blue-tongues should always have access to clean drinking water from a dish that is easy to climb out of and not easy to knock over.

Tank Flooring: Aspen, Repti Bark, and recycled paper all make suitable choices for northern blue-tongues. To maintain proper humidity levels, coconut fiber and cypress mulch are ideal for Indonesians. Blue-tongues like to burrow and should be given at least 3-4 in. of substrate to do so as adults (2-3 in. as babies/juveniles).

Tank Decoration: Blue-tongues prefer floor space to elaborate decoration. Any reptile-safe items are okay, but they will do fine with just  hides on the hot and cold sides. They occasionally like to climb but aren’t very good at it, so tall decorations are best avoided entirely.

Diet: Blue-tongues are omnivores and do best with a highly varied diet consisting of 40% protein, 50% veggies, and 10% fruit. Suitable protein includes gut-loaded crickets, dubias, mealworms, snails, and the occasional superworm, as well as hard-boiled egg, cooked ground turkey, and lean ground beef, Repashy Bluey Buffet, as well as super premium dog and cat food (dog foods give much more balanced nutrition), and the very occasional pinkie mouse. Veggies can include calcium-rich leafy greens like collards, dandelion, turnip, and mustard greens, as well as squashes, carrots, and brussels sprouts. Suitable fruits include banana (sparingly), mango, blueberries, raspberries, and strawberries. All of the above items besides the bugs, snails, and mice can be found at most supermarkets. 

Feeding Frequency: Babies and juveniles should be fed at least every other day, providing as much food as they will eat. Adults can be fed every 2-3 days depending on their appetite. Calcium and multivitamin supplements should be given at least twice a week to babies/adults and at least once a week for adults.

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