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African Bullfrog Care Guide

African Bull Frog / Pyxie Frog (Pyxiecephalus adspersus)

Species Info: Pyxie frogs, also known as giant African bullfrogs, are a common sight in the wet grasslands of South Africa. They are one of the few frogs with teeth and are also the second largest frogs (not including extinct species) known to science, surpassed only by the goliath frog. During periods of extremely dry conditions in their native habitat, pyxies regularly estivate, forming water-tight cocoons out of dead skin layers and going dormant until the rains return. 

Level of Care/Handling: Easy-medium. Pyxie frogs are some of the more hardy frogs commonly available in the pet trade. However the most hardy amphibians are still more sensitive than starter reptiles due to the sensitive nature of their skin, making them not ideal for a child’s first pet. Pyxie frogs can tolerate a small amount of handling, but most will get stressed from excessive amounts. It is not recommend to handle the average pyxie more than once or twice a week. Handling should also only ever be done with thoroughly washed, wetted hands or wetted gloves with treated water.

Length/Lifespan: Pyxies are one of the few frogs with males being the larger sex, generally reaching lengths of 6-10 in. snout to vent. 4-6 in. is considered a good length for females. With good husbandry, pyxie frogs tend to live an average of 15 years.

Temperature/Humidity/Lighting/Space: Enclosure temperatures should preferably stay in the high 70’s to low 80’s, with a hot spot of 85 degrees. This is best accomplished by sticking a thermostat-controlled heat mat under one end of the enclosure. Humidity should stay around 60%, and can be maintained by using the right substrate. It is also recommended to have a water bowl (and treated tap water only) large enough to soak in,  UVB lighting is unnecessary for this species, but fluorescent lighting should be used if live plants are in the enclosure. Fully grown pyxies should be kept in no less than a 30 gallon enclosure, large froglets in 20 gallons, and small froglets in 1-10 gallons (again, size dependent.)

Flooring: Enclosure flooring can be approached in multiple ways. Many pyxie owners use 3-4 inches of coconut fibre and/or organic topsoil with no/minimal peat moss or added pesticides/fertilizer. It is also okay to keep your pixie in 1 inch of treated water (or on a hybrid setup of both kinds) but this will make a filter and frequent water changes necessary.    

Decoration: Any animal safe items are okay, but should be able to withstand the weight of your frog and its burrowing behavior. If live plants are used, be prepared for them to be destroyed by said burrowing behavior. 

Diet: Pyxie frogs regularly eat many different types of vertebrates and invertebrates in the wild. As babies and juveniles, pixies should get mostly lean, gut loaded insects like crickets and roaches, and also nightcrawlers. Feeder fishes like guppies can be used as well, but goldfish (for some reason the most popular) should be avoided as their nutritional content is not right for frogs. Treats like hornworms and waxworms can be offered every now and then, but should be very limited as pyxie frogs can very easily become obese. Feeders should ideally be no larger than the space between your frog’s eyes. Adults can have a very occasional adult mouse, but no more than 2-3 times a month as they are extremely fatty. All feeder insects should be dusted with a calcium supplement with vitamin D3, and dusted with a multivitamin once a week. 

Feeding Frequency: Froglets and juveniles can be fed 3-4 appropriately sized feeders every 2-3 days. Full grown adults can be fed once or twice a week. 

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