Ackie Monitor Care

Species Info: Ackie monitors are currently the only monitor species that can be legally owned without a permit in Massachusetts. Native to Australia, these monitors have the typical “goanna” body type (bulky body, slender neck and head), with the added spiny tail that gives them their species name. In the wild this tail is used to block the entrance of burrows to stop predators/rivals from entering. Ackies are fast moving, voracious, and inquisitive; essentially a typical monitor in a much smaller package.

Level of Care: Medium. Ackie monitors require a larger than expected enclosure for their adult size, and it can sometimes be tricky to keep them at the higher temps/moderate humidity they require to thrive.                                    

Length/Lifespan: Adult ackies tend to reach 20-24” and up to 30”, but at any size the monitor’s tail generally makes up half its length. With proper husbandry your monitor can easily live 15-20 years! 

Temperature/Lighting/Humidity/Space Requirements: Typical of many monitors, ackies require enclosure temperatures that may seem downright dangerous at first glance. A heat gradient is required to keep your monitor happy and active, with a warm side around 95-100 degrees and a “cool” side in the low 80’s. A basking spot of 120-140 degrees should also be provided. Note that this hot spot is the temperature of the top of the substrate, not the air. You can monitor (haha) the hot spot using an infrared temperature thermometer. Both a heat lamp (or 2 if necessary) and UV strip light should be provided to ensure proper growth and digestion. Humidity should ideally be at 60-80%, which can be provided with a large water bowl, daily mistings, and covering a part of the enclosure’s ventilation area with saran wrap if necessary. Sphagnum moss can also be added to the burrows your monitor creates, and moistened for extra humidity. 

Hatchling ackies can be comfortably housed in 20 gallon enclosures or larger; any smaller and this extremely active lizard will get very bored very quickly. We’ve housed hatchlings in 30 gallons starting out and they use every inch of the space. Also keep in mind when choosing an enclosure that ackies grow rapidly. Adult ackies will need an enclosure of 4ft. by 2ft. at the very least.

Tank Flooring: There are a few different options for ackie substrate, but any choice should be able to handle moisture without fouling while also retaining burrows. To this end, Reptisoil or a custom-made substrate of coconut fiber/sand or coconut fiber/cypress mulch could all work well. 

Tank Decoration: Ackies prefer to thermoregulate from under cover, and so would appreciate a series of hides along its heat gradient. A hide design that’s been shown to work especially well with ackies is a stack of layered pieces of wood with enough space for the monitor to climb between the layers. A water bowl should also be offered, and as already mentioned this bowl can be on the larger side to help with enclosure humidity. Any reptile-safe items can be used.

 Diet: Ackie monitors feed primarily on insects and small lizards in the wild. In captivity this can be replicated with a variety of insect feeders and the occasional pinky mouse (no more than once or twice a month for adults). As a rule you shouldn’t ever expect your ackie to be interested in food that isn’t live. However, they can be acclimated to this type of food with tong feeding. 

Feeding Frequency: Ackies are incredibly active, and as a consequence need to eat a lot more than would be expected of an ectothermic (cold-blooded) animal. Babies can be offered 3-4 good-sized feeders (equivalent to a 3/4-1” cricket) 5-7 times a week. Adults can also be offered food daily, though it can be beneficial to fast them for a day or 2 if its last meal was a mouse. Insects can be dusted 3 times/week with a D3 calcium/multivitamin supplement for babies. And non-D3 calcium the rest of the time. Adults should still be offered calcium/multivitamins every week to couple weeks a non-D3 calcium at least twice as often.

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