JabberwockReptiles@gmail.com
157 Main Street, Stoneham, MA 02180
Corn Snake Care
Corn Snake (Pantherophis guttatus)
Species Info: Corn snakes are native to the southeastern United States. A type of rat snake, corn snakes are non-venomous, subduing their prey via constriction. However, because of their similar coloration, they are often mistaken for copperhead snakes (which actually are venomous). This is known as Batesian mimicry, and is believed to sometimes save them from being eaten by animals wary of copperheads.
Level of Care: Easy. Corn snakes make great starter reptiles, but like most snakes can get very stressed from frequent handling.
Length/Lifespan: Females (~5 ft. as adults) get slightly larger than males (~4 ft. as adults). Captive corn snakes usually live between 15 and 20 years.
Temperature/Lighting/Space Requirements: Your corn snake’s enclosure should have an ambient temperature of ~75 degrees, with a hotspot of 85-90 degrees. This can be accomplished by placing a heat pad under one side of the enclosure. Supplemental UV lighting is not necessary. Corn snakes tend to be quite active so the more space they have, the better. At minimum, adult males should be housed in a 20 gallon long enclosure, and females in a 40 gallon.
Humidity/Water Requirements: Corn snakes do fine in a humidity range between 30 and 50%, which lines up with the usual humidity of a New England home. A water bowl should be given for your snake to drink and soak in, and should be changed daily. When your snake is in shed, they can be given a light misting and or a moist hide, which can be done by lining the bottom with wet moss or a paper towel.
Cage Flooring: Dry substrates are recommended, the best being aspen or Repti Bark.
Cage Decoration: Most reptile-safe items are okay, but stay away from things with small holes, as your corn snake can easily get themselves stuck inside of them.
Diet: Because corn snakes can easily become overweight, mice are recommended over rats because of their lower fat content. Adults don’t need anything larger than an adult mouse. Thawed (and warmed to normal body temperature) prey is recommended over live, which can end up biting or otherwise injuring your snake.
Feeding Frequency: Babies and juveniles should be fed every 5-7 days, and adults every 10. Your snake should not be handled at least a day after feeding (or it might regurgitate its meal) or before (they may become too stressed to eat).
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